The Up North Loop: A Bikepacking Journey Through Minnesota's Wilds
I recently embarked on a bikepacking adventure through the Up North Loop in Minnesota, and it was an experience that truly showcased the beauty and diversity of the state's northern regions. As an avid cyclist and nature enthusiast, I was eager to explore this route, which promises a mix of challenging terrain, stunning landscapes, and unique cultural insights. What made this trip particularly fascinating was the opportunity to tackle it with a group of eight riders, each bringing their own perspective and experience to the journey.
The route itself is a well-designed adventure, offering a balanced mix of paved roads, gravel paths, and off-road trails. It's a testament to the growing popularity of bikepacking as a means of exploring remote areas, and it's no wonder that more and more people are drawn to this mode of travel. But what sets the Up North Loop apart is the attention to detail in its planning and the unique stops along the way.
One of the highlights of the trip was the first day's journey from Chisholm to Thistledew Campground. The route starts with a couple of easy paved miles, allowing riders to warm up and enjoy the scenery. But it quickly transitions to gravel roads and two-track trails, offering a fun mix of riding that keeps you engaged throughout the day. The lightly used trails provide a sense of remoteness and adventure, with punchy climbs and rocky descents that test your skills and build your confidence.
Around mile 30, we stumbled upon Bimbo's Octagon, a unique lunch stop with pinball machines and a relaxed atmosphere. Unfortunately, it was closed on weekdays, so we continued a mile farther to the Side Lake Store, where we resupplied with cold sandwiches, drinks, ice cream, and beer. Pro tip: pick up a pack of local Tikes-brand natural-casing hot dogs and buns for a late-night snack.
One of the most memorable moments of the trip was the river crossing at mile 43. The bridge had disappeared long ago, leaving us with a manageable knee- to thigh-deep water crossing. It was a refreshing challenge, and the three-quarter-mile ride down to it was well worth the effort. Those preferring to stay dry can follow a reroute, which adds approximately six miles.
The second day's journey from Thistledew Campground to Scenic State Park was a slower start by design. We knew that Deer Lake Charlie's, one of the route's most memorable stops, didn't open until noon, so we took our time, enjoying a relaxed morning around camp and casting lines into the lake. The day started with more of the excellent two-track trails, eventually transitioning to forest roads and Rollercoaster Road, a stretch of short climbs and descents that led us to Deer Lake Charlie's.
The four-mile out-and-back detour to Deer Lake Charlie's was absolutely worth it. We arrived a little early, but Gail and SuZanne welcomed us immediately and shared stories about their bar, which has remained in Gail's family for nearly 80 years. We settled in with bar-style pizzas and cold drinks while exploring one of the most unique bars I've encountered, an eclectic mix of memorabilia, games, and handwritten messages on the wall.
As the miles ticked by, the route gradually transitioned into a more agricultural landscape. Crossing the Big Fork River was another highlight, with a refreshing swim in the shallow waters providing a perfect mid-afternoon refresh. A stretch of pavement offered some time to relax before arriving in the small town of Effie, where we grabbed candy bars or cold drinks.
The third day's journey from Scenic State Park to Crooked Lake was a highlight of the trip. The route started with a mix of paved roads and forest roads, eventually leading to some of the most enjoyable forest roads I've ever pedaled. Tall pine forests lined both sides of the road, creating long tunnels of shade while the cool morning air drifted through the woods. The gravel was smooth, the traffic nonexistent, and for long stretches, the only sounds were the hum of tires and the occasional bird call.
By mile 21, the warming temperatures had us ready for a break, and Arrowhead Lake provided the perfect excuse to stop. The fish were nearly jumping out of the water as we cast lines from shore. A quick swim helped wash away the accumulating dust, and with a vault toilet nearby, it made for an ideal mid-morning rest stop.
The final day's journey from Crooked Lake to Wolf Lake was a mix of gravel roads and faint two-track trails that occasionally seemed to disappear into the grass. More than once, we found ourselves wondering if we were still on the route, but the tracks always reappeared just ahead. As the evening light began to soften, the route delivered a few final challenges, including several short but steep climbs.
In conclusion, the Up North Loop is a well-designed bikepacking route that offers a balanced mix of challenging terrain, stunning landscapes, and unique cultural insights. It's a testament to the growing popularity of bikepacking as a means of exploring remote areas, and it's no wonder that more and more people are drawn to this mode of travel. So, if you're looking for an adventure that combines the thrill of cycling with the beauty of nature, the Up North Loop is definitely worth considering.
